The use of silicon to achieve a special effect and body in different flies is not a new thing, but we have not yet seen that many designs, even when we know it allows us to tie designs that are lightweight and capable of floating on the surface, something that cannot be done with regular epoxies.We View more...The use of silicon to achieve a special effect and body in different flies is not a new thing, but we have not yet seen that many designs, even when we know it allows us to tie designs that are lightweight and capable of floating on the surface, something that cannot be done with regular epoxies.We have been fishing golden dorados with floating lines and all types of surface flies for years now with Julio Riva, gone but unforgettable friend, a true character that marked a whole era at El Paso. Ever since those days we have not stopped fishing dorados, and all the other fish that surround them, with floating flies. This type of imitations has become a valuable resource to use when there is no violent top water activity.When looking for a simple alternative to the traditional silicon flies with a woolen muddler-like head that is covered with silicon, I got to this different way of tying them. It gives better results, the best possible finish, makes it easier to tie and also to add colors on the back and sides of the fly. At the same time, using especially prepared spatulas, there is no need to apply detergent or Kodak Photo-Flo to spread the silicon, a tricky step no longer necessary.We can make these flies float or move, suspending, under the surface with a zigzag movement that becomes irresistible. Golden dorados and other fish have approved these joyfully, taking the flies with a stunning determination.You will realize that silicon allows us to make hollow flies in a simple way, giving life-like qualities to the imitations that cannot be achieved in another way. MM Playboy, the fly we will review, reminds us about another electrifying use of silicon, but we will talk about that another time.
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List of materials
Tying MaterialsHook: Saltwater hooks, preferably short shank ones like the Owner AKI, Gamakatsu SC 15 or Mustad C68S, in the size of your choice. I tie small ones that drive brown trout crazy; I use Daiichi 1750 straight eye hooks for these ones.Thread: Transparent nylon monofilament for fly-tying, like UNI MONO or sewing monofilament of 0,1 mm. In any case, white thread of 3/0 or 6/0 can be used.Tail: White Icelandic Hair, four to six white rooster saddles and some flashabou-like fibers over th View more...Tying MaterialsHook: Saltwater hooks, preferably short shank ones like the Owner AKI, Gamakatsu SC 15 or Mustad C68S, in the size of your choice. I tie small ones that drive brown trout crazy; I use Daiichi 1750 straight eye hooks for these ones.Thread: Transparent nylon monofilament for fly-tying, like UNI MONO or sewing monofilament of 0,1 mm. In any case, white thread of 3/0 or 6/0 can be used.Tail: White Icelandic Hair, four to six white rooster saddles and some flashabou-like fibers over them. All kinds of synthetic materials can replace Icelandic Hair, with or without the feathers.Head: White Craft Fur with a strap of red Icelandic Hair on the back.Silicon: I use regular silicon glue which works perfectly.
Steps
Step 1
Make a base with the nylon thread by doing “X” turns, and apply some cyanoacrylate to set them firmly. Tie a white Icelandic Hair strap, as seen in the picture. Do not use too much.
Step 2
One by one, tie the white saddle hackles flat around the base of the tail, with its curve inwards. If the saddles are big, normally four or five will be enough to make a circle around the Icelandic Hair. So that these do not twist, try to tie the saddles where the raquis is flat and where the fibers are feathery like marabou. When it is flat on the tail, the saddles make an attractive silhouette: a translucent body with great underwater movements. View more...One by one, tie the white saddle hackles flat around the base of the tail, with its curve inwards. If the saddles are big, normally four or five will be enough to make a circle around the Icelandic Hair. So that these do not twist, try to tie the saddles where the raquis is flat and where the fibers are feathery like marabou. When it is flat on the tail, the saddles make an attractive silhouette: a translucent body with great underwater movements.
Step 3
Over the saddles we should add some flashabou or a similar material, but not too much of it. Just some bright material is better than a lot because fish below the surface barely reflect light, because of the way the light falls upon the scales. Only when prey fish turn exponentially towards the light, a strong flash is produced. Scales mainly reflect, like a mirror, what surrounds prey fish underwater, making perfect camouflage. View more...Over the saddles we should add some flashabou or a similar material, but not too much of it. Just some bright material is better than a lot because fish below the surface barely reflect light, because of the way the light falls upon the scales. Only when prey fish turn exponentially towards the light, a strong flash is produced. Scales mainly reflect, like a mirror, what surrounds prey fish underwater, making perfect camouflage.
Step 4
Tie a 6 inches long copper wire loop. The wire should have a diameter of at least 0.25mm. so that it resists torsion. Introduce in the loop a good amount of white Craft Fur, leaving the short side with the same length as the hook shank. With some practice, you will know how much Craft Fur you have to use, but it has to be enough to cover densely the hook, from the end of it to the eye. To move easily the Craft Fur to the wire loop you can use a Marc Petit Jean tool. View more...Tie a 6 inches long copper wire loop. The wire should have a diameter of at least 0.25mm. so that it resists torsion. Introduce in the loop a good amount of white Craft Fur, leaving the short side with the same length as the hook shank. With some practice, you will know how much Craft Fur you have to use, but it has to be enough to cover densely the hook, from the end of it to the eye. To move easily the Craft Fur to the wire loop you can use a Marc Petit Jean tool.
Step 5
Keeping the wire tight, wrap it confidently until all of the Craft Fur starts twisting from one end of the loop to the other. Then, free the long hairs with a needle; they always get a bit tangled. Wrap again and free more hair, until the wire is tense again. If it cuts, we pushed it but there is no problem because the loop is not undone. We should tie it on the hook again. Carefully comb the hair backwards, as if it was hackle, and wrap the Craft Fur hackle with close turns up to the hook eye. View more...Keeping the wire tight, wrap it confidently until all of the Craft Fur starts twisting from one end of the loop to the other. Then, free the long hairs with a needle; they always get a bit tangled. Wrap again and free more hair, until the wire is tense again. If it cuts, we pushed it but there is no problem because the loop is not undone. We should tie it on the hook again. Carefully comb the hair backwards, as if it was hackle, and wrap the Craft Fur hackle with close turns up to the hook eye. Then, untangle the hair with a comb or thick needle and comb it towards the bend of the hook.
Step 6
Carefully tie a red Icelandic strap in the head. Firstly, towards the front leaving a short bit pointing backwards. Bend the long strap towards the back covering the short bit, to finish the head of the fly. Make a knot, cut the monofilament and add some cyanoacrylate so that the nylon does not get messy. One we have cut the thread of the head, force all the hair towards the back, with the back of the fly correctly centered, and tie with the thread a strap that will maintain the shape of the hea View more...Carefully tie a red Icelandic strap in the head. Firstly, towards the front leaving a short bit pointing backwards. Bend the long strap towards the back covering the short bit, to finish the head of the fly. Make a knot, cut the monofilament and add some cyanoacrylate so that the nylon does not get messy. One we have cut the thread of the head, force all the hair towards the back, with the back of the fly correctly centered, and tie with the thread a strap that will maintain the shape of the head. If it is easier for you, for this step some wire can be used instead of thread. Try pulling the hair towards the back with different intensity to make diverse diameters in the head before tying the strap that will keep the final shape. The bigger the diameter, the more it floats; but we should not cover the whole hook with an oversized head. It is no problem to leave some hair untied, for the silicon will then set them straight.
Step 7
Use a small stainless-steel spatula (those mirror polished and a bit flexible) to apply the silicon on the head, from the hook eye towards the back of the fly. After tying a few of these flies you will know how much silicon is needed in each case. The secret is to apply just the amount enough to cover the fly until its end without it dripping at the back or the sides. We should apply five or six fine layers. The polished spatula evens out the silicon in a miraculous way, without it sticking or l View more...Use a small stainless-steel spatula (those mirror polished and a bit flexible) to apply the silicon on the head, from the hook eye towards the back of the fly. After tying a few of these flies you will know how much silicon is needed in each case. The secret is to apply just the amount enough to cover the fly until its end without it dripping at the back or the sides. We should apply five or six fine layers. The polished spatula evens out the silicon in a miraculous way, without it sticking or losing transparency. A rotary vise is fundamental.
Step 8
Before the last layer of silicon dries, place and tighten the tridimensional eyes (not too tight), making them sink just a bit on the silicon layer. The fly is now finished. There is no need to cut or use tricky detergents. Silicon dries very fast but we should wait a day to have fun with these flies. The good thing is we can fix them at night, spreading some more silicon.There are different colors of silicon, thus the variety of flies we can tie is really interesting, as we can see in the top p View more...Before the last layer of silicon dries, place and tighten the tridimensional eyes (not too tight), making them sink just a bit on the silicon layer. The fly is now finished. There is no need to cut or use tricky detergents. Silicon dries very fast but we should wait a day to have fun with these flies. The good thing is we can fix them at night, spreading some more silicon.There are different colors of silicon, thus the variety of flies we can tie is really interesting, as we can see in the top picture. And those are just the beginning.
Step 9
Finished fly image.
