Since “Dorado” is the Spanish word for gold, it seems rather ironic that this fish has been given the same name twice. When we call it a Golden Dorado, we are really calling it ”Golden Gold”. Maybe it’s just another mistaken use of Spanglish or maybe it’s something more. When the noon sun is reflecting off the scales of a still wet Dorado, it shimmers with such intensity and luster that the words, golden and gold, can’t help but echo around in the back of your mind.
Fifty years is the golden anniversary, albeit usually for marriage, but in this case I took exception. I was celebrating fifty years of living on this big blue planet and it seemed appropriate to honor the occasion with gold. So I did my research and discovered where the gold was hiding and put my plan in motion.
I was able to convince three of my friends to attempt this quest with me: T.J, Marty, and my brother Greg. These intrepid souls would accompany me on an amazing journey half way around the world from our home waters in Alaska. Granted, leaving Alaska in February makes it far easier to recruit than in the summer or fall. Nonetheless, it was a huge commitment on their part and I couldn’t have asked for better companions.
By divine intervention or more probably, pure dumb luck, I stumbled upon a lodge that would cater to our desires exactly. In April, while wading through the maze of isles and booths at the Great Alaskan Sportsman Show, I found the answer to my prayers: Los Laureles Lodge.
Located in Argentina along the banks of the Parana’ River, Los Laureles Lodge was perfectly suited to meet our needs. The sales booth touted a “Cast & Blast” billet, as the lodge is not only located in Dorado country, but also in one of the best flyways for dove hunting on the planet. They were running a 2-for-1 show special for a six-night/seven-day stay at the lodge that included a half-day of dove hunting and a half-day of fly-fishing for Golden Dorado. I was sold on the spot and once I had commitments from my friends, I pulled the trigger and put down the deposit for a weeklong stay.
My friends and I are primarily fly-fishermen, so we worked out a plan with the lodge to fish most of the time and then do some occasional pass-shooting for doves to give our casting arms a much needed rest. Fly-fishing for Dorado involves an inordinate amount of repetitive casting of very large flies, immediately followed by vigorous stripping to the boat. Add to that, the occasional windy day and well, I can’t prove it, but I swear my right arm is now bigger than my left.
Using airline miles, to save on expenses, we were able to fly “for free” from Anchorage to Buenos Aires on Alaskan Airlines and their code-share partner Aeromexico. We elected to arrive a couple days early to take in the sights and sounds of Buenos Aires and also as a back up in case there were flight delays or missing luggage. It was too far to go to take any unnecessary chances. We also had to transfer to the domestic airport to catch our final flight into Santa Fe (Argentina). So this break in Buenos Aires allowed us to refresh and relax before the final segment of our journey. It was a welcome respite after traveling 6,500 miles, 6 time zones, across the equator, and into the Southern Hemisphere.
The city of Santa Fe is located about 250 miles northwest of Buenos Aires along the banks of the Parana River. From here, the lodge would pick us up for the final one and a half hour drive to Los Laureles Lodge. Aldo, one of the lodge managers, greeted us at the terminal and drove us to the lodge. Aldo spoke English quite well and the staff and guides could also speak some English, so communication was never a problem during our stay.
Los Laureles Lodge is located in the Entire Rios region of Argentina. The ranch sits along the shores of the majestic Parana’ River within a massive flood plain. The main river courses 3000 miles downstream from its’ headwaters in Brazil. In South America, only the Amazon River is longer. Huge barges, transporting all types of goods, slowly churn their way along the rusty-brown colored waterway. The river is heavily braided in this area and it would be in this labyrinth of back channels and side sloughs that we would encounter our quarry.
The lodge sits on a very nice plateau overlooking the river. With six double-rooms, the lodge can accommodate up to twelve guests at a time. The rooms are nicely appointed and each has a private bath. There is a large living room with comfortable couches for relaxing and reminiscing at the end of the day. The main dining room can seat everyone at one large table. Outside, there is a long covered patio with coffee tables and chairs to enjoy the fresh morning air and watch the Southern Lapland birds running around between the large palm trees. There is also a pool and BBQ area located behind the main lodge.
The Los Laureles staff treated us like royalty. Each morning we were greeted with a friendly knock on the door. After dressing, we would all meet on the patio for fresh coffee and make plans for the day. Then a hearty breakfast would be served with made-to-order eggs, meats, cheeses, fresh fruits, yogurts, and breads. While we were eating, the staff would make up our rooms and do any laundry we had left out for them. We would then depart to go fish and return again at noon for lunch.
Upon our return, we would be treated to delicious appetizers as well as a bottle of wine or some ice-cold beer. We would then proceed to the dining room for a delicious lunch, more wine, and then finish with homemade deserts. After a very filling meal we would adjourn to our rooms for a siesta during the hottest part of the day. Another wake up knock and we were on our way to another afternoon of fishing.
We would fish until dark and return around 9 PM for a late supper. Again, appetizers and libations would be waiting for us. After a quick shower, we would meet in the dining room for more sumptuous treats from the kitchen. Every meal was different and a masterpiece in it’s own right. The deserts were equally unique and left our mouths watering. Between the quantity and quality of exquisite food being presented to us, we felt like everyday was Thanksgiving Day.
The lodge has its’ own boat launch and it is just a short five minute drive to the ramp. There we would meet Ruben and Pepe’, our fishing and hunting guides for the week. Each day we would pair up with one of the guides and go out in their boats. These were fiberglass outboard boats with a center console and casting platforms on the bow and the stern. On these hot humid days, a cooler full of refreshing ice-cold water, sodas, and cervezas were always within hands reach.
We launched into the main channel of the river and then sped across the rust colored water to the braided section of the river. Here the water had a chance to settle and was less muddied. Our guides knew where the “gold” was likely to be hiding. We would prospect an area and if there was no sign underwater or color on the surface, then we’d quickly move on to the next claim. Due to the discolored water, most of the time we were casting blind, trying to get our flies to land as close to the bank or brush as possible and then rapidly stripping them back, anxiously hoping for “the tug”.
Sometimes a Dorado would hit the surface while chasing a school of minnows. We would look for these telltale signs and immediately cast into them. A good cast was often rewarded with an explosive response from the beast below. A strong strip set was necessary to drive the 3/0 hook home and the battle was on. In the beginning, at some point, we all instinctively tried to use the “rod-lift” technique for setting the hook. This quickly resulted in a limp rod and a fish happily on his way. In fact, the first time I forgot to strip-set, I think I heard the fish laughing at me, although it may have been my guide. Either way, it was self-critiquing and I didn’t make the same mistake twice.
The hard-hitting strike of a Golden Dorado is like none I’ve felt before. Sometimes they will short strike because of the long flies we use. But when they gobble the whole fly, it’s like hooking into a moving freight train and you better hang on. We had to use 30-pound wire tippet because of their powerful jaws and sharp serrated teeth. Plus, razor-sharp hooks from 2/0 to 4/0 were necessary to penetrate their tough skin.
Once you firmly hook into a Golden Dorado, the battle begins. He will be airborne in a matter of seconds of the hook-set, head shaking and tail walking. Then he will take off on a blistering run stripping line down to your backing. Once again, the Dorado will explode out of the water like the Tazmanian devil; a whirling dervish, spinning and bucking, and using every bit of his strength in an attempt to throw your hook. Not until he is completely spent will he come to the boat. Even then, he may give one final surge when you bring him to the net. El Diablo might have been a better moniker than El Dorado, because they fight like the devil.
The Parana’ River is host to a wide variety of fish, not just Golden Dorado. We caught good-sized catfish and hooked into a massive fresh water stingray. We landed a rare Paeneta (pay-en-yeh-ta) which we promptly called a piñata, because of its’ bright iridescent colors and because, well, Spanglish. This beautiful fish was like a cross between a small mouth bass and a peacock bass, but dressed for Mardi Gras. We also caught a few Chafalote (Chaf-ah-low-tay), which we aptly nicknamed the “Chupacabra” after the mythical beast of South America. This is a long slender slimy fish with yellow eyes and an under-bite that would make Dracula envious. I’m talking serious upward fangs! Handle this beast with care and maybe have a cross and a wooden stake handy just to be on the safe side.
Rumor has it that Golden Dorado are excellent table fare, but these fish are protected in this area, so all our fishing was strictly catch-and-release. Like fishing in so many other parts of the world, early morning and late evening saw the greatest numbers of fish caught. Some days we fished long hours and came up empty. While other days the bite was on and we hammered them. Even between boats, one might catch a bunch and the other only a few.
There were no guarantees and nothing came easy. But then, there in lies the challenge of fly-fishing. It amplifies the excitement and exuberance when you finally do find the fish, choose the correct fly, make the perfect cast, remember to strip-set, and successfully play the fish to the net. Those big smiles on my coveted “grip-n-grin” pictures are my reward for a job well done.
While the fly-fishing was amazing, the dove hunting was equally spectacular. The difference now being that you were guaranteed birds and they did come easy. We drove five minutes from the main lodge to our corn-stalk blinds. These were set up sandwiched between a cornfield and the roosting trees. The doves were everywhere and never stopped coming in. You could easily shoot a thousand rounds or more in a day and not put a dent in that population. The over abundance of doves has created a problem for farmers, so they encourage the hunts as a form of conservation.
Before we knew it, our weeklong adventure at Los Laureles Lodge had come to an end. It had been an epic trip and one that I would love to experience again. We made new friends, caught plenty of big beautiful tough fighting fish, and we were treated like royalty. We came hunting El Dorado; we found the gold, plenty of it, but the real treasure was sharing the experience with my good friends. Life is short, finite, and as I grow older I have come to appreciate and really value the quality time I get to spend with my friends.
I have no affiliation with them other than enjoying a great lodge. If you’re interested in fishing or hunting at Los Laureles Lodge, then contact:
John
John Reynal
Owner
Exciting
Outdoors Argentina
Toll Free 1-800 246-9114
Office BA +1 (786) 207-4532
Los Laureles +1 (832) 295-9965
